Chamonix

behind Maison de la Montagne· Cheap

Impressive collection of crystals, mostly from Chamonix (smoky and rose quartz), but also from the rest of the Alps and worldwide. Describes the geology and formative processes involved.

Jacques Balmat (1762-1834) was one of the pair who first reached the peak of Mont Blanc. The statue, erected in 1887, is a popular photo spot, looking south so that Mont Blanc forms the background.

· Free

One of the largest glaciers in Europe, 7.5 km long - 12 km if its tributaries are included - but shrinking fast, and rattling along at 1 cm an hour.

La Résidence 89 avenue Michel Croz· Cheap

Located in an early 20th century hotel, it shows the development of alpinism in the region from the first ascent of Mont Blanc to the modern sports climbers by means of historical paintings, photos and maps.

· Pricey

This is north side of the valley, opposite to Mont Blanc, so it gives you better views of the massif. The valley station is in Chamonix town centre, and the first car rides up to Planpraz at 1999 m. The second car rises to 2525 m.

· Pricey

Near the top of the Chamonix valley, this cable car rises above Le Tour village (at 1462 m) to Charamillon at 1850 m. A chairlift continues to Les Autannes at 2195 m. Another cable car starts from Vallorcines village.

· Pricey

These serve the ski area above Argentière at 1252 m. The highest is the two-stage ascent to Lognan at 1972 m then Grands Montets at 3275 m. The lower cable car runs year round, the upper only in ski season.

· Pricey

It goes from Les Praz village to the La Flégère site at an altitude of 1877 m. With a further chair lift ascending to an altitude of 2595 m.

· Moderate

Two cable cars (Bellevue one and Parion gondola) ascend from Les Houches, 5 km down the valley from Chamonix. The larger cable car rises to the ridge of Bellevue at 1794 m.

10 km down valley from Chamonix

Authentic French food, but not typical Savoyard.

Chamonix Sud

While the walk to 'the Vag' can be a chilly one in winter, you'll probably be met by a roaring fire, football on the TV and a fun crowd of regulars (expats) and backpackers staying in the adjoining hostel.

slightly out of the centre (walking distance) near the Aiguille de Midi

Chamonix's largest nightclub may be a bit empty out of season (even though it's often the only late-night joint open) but it's still fun and a good place to mingle with tourists, expats and even a few locals!

Centre of town

Popular with the après-ski crowd and expats, Chambre Neuf offers a classy location for a tasty and reasonably-priced lunch, a bite to eat, or a happy-hour cocktail.

Chamonix Sud

Gay-friendly nightclub in Chamonix Sud. Good place for a boogie.

200 metres north of Savoy nursery slopes· Expensive

They run 5 chalets in Chamonix, all with catering: Chalet Cachat, 14 Rue Mummery, six bedrooms; Chalet La Chapelle, no details available; Chalet Heidi on Rue de Pelerins, five bedrooms; Chalet Cerisier, 253 Ave des Bois, five bedrooms…

foot of town, 1 km from centre & lifts· Pricey

Hostel, member of the Fédération Unie des Auberges de Jeunesse and Hostelling International.

80 Chemin D'Ile des Barrats· Expensive

Catered 4-bedroom chalet close to the centre of Chamonix.

26 Route des Bouchards

They run three self-catering chalets in the Chamonix Valley, all around Les Houches some way from Chamonix and from ski lifts so you'll need your own car.